1. Unplug Your Saw: Before making any adjustments, always disconnect the saw from its power source.
2. Select Your Cut Type: Choose whether you are making a 'Through Cut' that goes all the way through the material, or a 'Non-Through Cut' for joinery.
3. Enter Your Dimensions:
   • For a through cut, enter the material's thickness.
   • For a non-through cut, enter your desired cut depth.
4. Calculate & Set Height: Use the recommended height from the calculator. Place a quality ruler or a setup block on the table next to the blade to set the height of a tooth at its highest point.
5. Perform a Test Cut: Always make a test cut on a piece of scrap material to verify your setup before cutting your workpiece.

• Through Cut: A cut that goes completely through the thickness of the material, such as ripping or crosscutting.
• Non-Through Cut: A cut that only goes partway through the material, such as a dado, groove, or rabbet.
• Kickback: A dangerous event where the saw blade binds in the wood and violently throws the workpiece back at the operator.
• Tear-Out: The chipping and splintering of wood fibers on the edge of a cut, especially where the blade exits the wood.
• Gullet: The curved space between saw blade teeth, which is designed to clear sawdust from the kerf.
• Setup Block: A precisely machined block of metal or plastic of a known dimension, used to accurately set the height of blades or bits.

"There's a long-standing debate about blade height for through cuts. Some argue for a very high blade, where the entire cutting edge clears the wood, as it produces a cleaner cut on the bottom surface. However, the modern safety consensus strongly favors a lower blade height, where just the gullet clears the wood. This directs the cutting force downwards onto the table, significantly reducing the chance of the wood lifting and causing a kickback. I always teach the lower, safer method. A cleaner cut means nothing if you're in the hospital." - Woodworking Safety Instructor

Example 1: Ripping a 3/4" Board (Through Cut)
You are cutting a 0.75" thick piece of plywood. The calculator recommends a blade height of `0.75" + 0.125" = 0.875"` (or 7/8"). This ensures the blade cuts safely and efficiently through the material.

Example 2: Cutting a 1/4" Dado (Non-Through Cut)
You need to cut a dado for a shelf that is 1/4" deep. The calculator recommends setting the blade height to exactly 0.25". You would use a dado stack or make multiple passes with a standard blade to achieve the required width.

• Setting the Blade Too High: Exposing far more blade than necessary for a through cut dramatically increases the amount of exposed blade facing the user and changes the cutting physics in a way that can increase kickback danger.
• Setting the Blade Too Low: For a through cut, if the gullets don't clear the top of the wood, sawdust can't be cleared efficiently. This can cause burning on the wood and may increase upward pressure on the stock.
• Forgetting to Unplug the Saw: The most critical safety mistake. Always disconnect power before your hands go anywhere near the blade.
• Measuring from the Throat Plate: Always measure blade height from the flat, cast-iron surface of the saw table itself, not the throat plate insert, which can be slightly higher or lower.

• Safe Ripping and Crosscutting: Using the recommended height for through cuts to ensure maximum safety.
• Precise Joinery: Setting the exact depth for non-through cuts like dados, rabbets, and grooves.
• Minimizing Tear-Out: Proper blade height helps ensure the blade shears the wood fibers cleanly, reducing splintering.
• Reducing Machine Strain: Using an optimal blade height allows the saw to work more efficiently, putting less strain on the motor.