The layout of a dovetail joint is more of a geometric process than a strict formula, but it follows a clear sequence.

1. Scribe Baselines: Mark a line around the end of both boards equal to the thickness of the mating board. This line, the baseline, defines the depth of the joint.
2. Lay out the Tails: On the end grain of the 'tail board', mark two small half-pins on the outside edges. Divide the remaining space to determine the number and spacing of your tails. A common aesthetic rule is to make the space between tails (the 'pins') about 1/5th the width of the tails themselves.
3. Mark the Angles: Use a dovetail marker or a sliding bevel set to your desired angle (e.g., 1:8 for hardwood) to draw the angled sides of the tails down to the baseline.
4. Cut the Tails: Carefully cut along the marked lines with a dovetail saw, stopping at the baseline. Remove the waste material between the tails with a coping saw and clean up to the baseline with a sharp chisel.
5. Transfer to the Pin Board: Place the finished tail board onto the end of the 'pin board', align it perfectly, and use a marking knife to trace the shape of the tails onto the pin board. This defines the exact shape of your pins.

• Tails: The trapezoidal, fan-shaped projections that form one half of the joint.
• Pins: The corresponding trapezoidal sockets on the mating board that the tails fit into.
• Baseline: The scribed line indicating the bottom of the tails and pins, equal to the thickness of the stock.
• Dovetail Angle/Ratio: The slope of the sides of the tails. A 1:8 ratio (7.1°) is common for hardwoods, while a 1:6 ratio (9.5°) is often used for softer woods.
• Half-Blind Dovetail: A variation where the joint is only visible from one side, commonly used for drawer fronts.
• Through Dovetail: A dovetail joint that is visible from both faces of the corner, common for box and carcass construction.

"The secret to tight dovetails isn't just in the cutting; it's in the marking. Use a marking knife, not a pencil. A knife severs the wood fibers and creates a precise channel for your chisel to sit in, which is far more accurate than a thick pencil line. When transferring the tail layout to your pin board, ensure the boards are perfectly square and held tightly. Any shift during this step will result in gaps. And remember, always cut on the 'waste' side of your line. You can always take more wood away, but you can't put it back." - Master Cabinetmaker

Making a Cherry Jewelry Box: The box sides are 4" wide and 1/2" thick. Using this calculator, it might suggest 3 tails.
Given the hardwood (cherry), a 1:8 angle ratio (or about 7-8 degrees) would be appropriate. The calculator provides the spacing and tail width to lay out a balanced and strong joint for the box corners.

Constructing a Poplar Drawer Box: The drawer side is 6" wide and 3/4" thick. Because poplar is a softer hardwood, a slightly steeper angle like 1:7 (or about 10-12 degrees) might be chosen for better mechanical lock. The calculator would suggest an appropriate number of tails (e.g., 4 or 5) to distribute the load evenly when the drawer is pulled.

• Cutting on the Line: Cutting exactly on your marked line removes half the line and results in a loose joint. Always leave the line on the finished piece.
• Inaccurate Baseline: A baseline that isn't square or is marked too deep/shallow will result in an uneven joint that doesn't sit flush.
• Chiseling Past the Baseline: When cleaning out waste, be careful not to drive your chisel past the baseline, which will create visible gaps in the finished joint.
• Incorrect Angle Transfer: If the angle is not transferred accurately from the tail board to the pin board, the joint will be impossible to assemble without gaps.

• Drawer Construction: The primary use case, as the joint is strongest when resisting the pulling force of opening a drawer.
• Box and Carcass Construction: Joining the corners of chests, high-quality boxes, and fine furniture carcasses.
• Blanket Chests and Trunks: Providing strength and a decorative element to large case pieces.
• Joining Wide Panels: While less common, dovetails can be used to join the edges of boards to form a wider panel, offering a decorative alternative to a simple butt joint.